Bosnia

December 31, 2008

2009 Destination Trend Report: 9 Places & One Theme

Instead of finding frustration in the travel media's year-end destination trend articles, I've decided to pen my own list of places that will be getting more tourist traffic and more media attention in the next few months, as well as one theme to look out for in 2009. This list reflects my own orientation as a traveler and travel writer, and is accordingly geared toward Europe and the Americas. 

1. Cuba. It's almost a cop-out to list Cuba, since everyone's buzzing about the country. It just seems inconceivable that President Obama would veto a bill lifting the ban on travel to Cuba, frankly, but time will tell. Cuba isn't new for Canadians, Latin Americans, and Europeans, of course; however, for the vast majority of Americans—including the well-traveled—it's unknown territory. I think it's safe to suggest that this will change in 2009 and beyond, and that the culture of tourism in Cuba will in turn shift. For those Americans eager to glimpse Cuba before the throngs arrive, this is the time to sneak in via the Cayman Islands, Mexico, or elsewhere.

2. Haiti. Lonely Planet just brought Haiti back into the fold with the publication of a joint DR-Haiti guidebook. Slowly, other guidebook series will be following suit. Everyone who reads newspapers knows that Haiti is very poor and no stranger to violence. The country is also teeming with volunteer travel opportunities, inexpensive beach hotels, and a rich art scene. All of these draws should pull in more tourists. Haiti has a kind of off-the-beaten-path caché that will linger for quite some time.

3. South America. My sister Marisa Robertson-Textor returned from a recent trip to Australia with the report that Antipodeans are headed to South America (and southern Africa) in huge numbers. Where savvy Aussies head today, others will journey tomorrow. Low regional costs will continue to convince Americans to head south this coming year, as well. Buenos Aires is well beyond discovery—the place has been the new Prague for a good half-decade—but vast parts of the continent are well-poised for their moments: the Uruguayan beach towns east of Punta del Este, the Chilean Lake District, northern Peru’s vast surfing beaches, and, of course, Colombia, the massive rediscovery of which has been underway for at least a year.

4. Newfoundland. No longer Canada’s poor far east—in 2009-2010, Newfoundland and Labrador will be a net contributor to Canada’s equalization payment system for the first time ever—the province has all the makings of a place ready to be discovered. It's a physically stunning, rugged, rustic place. And, to defer again to Claire Tansey's fab trend report in January's Canadian House and Home, it's got great restaurants like Portugal Cove's Atlantica Restaurant on hand to lure cuisine-driven tourists in.

5. The United States. The knock-on goodwill effects of Obama's win in November will be felt for quite some time. Lots of people will want to visit the US for the first time or rediscover it, and plenty of Americans living in coastal cities are going to be more interested in exploring the heartland. I can imagine lots of sixteen-page American road trip specials in European travel magazines, and I expect greater tourist traffic to Washington DC, Boston, Philadelphia, the Midwest, and above all Chicago.

6. Finland. I can't recall a time when the buzz around Finland was stronger. Helsinki's restaurants are getting write-ups right and left. Finnish design and retail are receiving lots of attention as well. At play in Finland's favor is the prevalent sense of a country that knows itself and values its products appropriately. Quite simply, Finland is hot right now.

7. The former Yugoslavia. There's a lot to choose from here, from Slovenia's well-developed tourist circuit to Macedonia's Lake Ohrid. The biggest surprise is that tourists haven't already headed to the region in greater numbers. Croatia's glorious Adriatic coast is old hat to trend watchers at this point. Slovenia will benefit over in the next few years from tourists seeking Alpine magic on a budget. Macedonia will see increased cultural tourism, as will, at long last, Sarajevo. The curious will trickle to Pristina, beach-hunters will continue to check out the Albanian and Montenegrin coasts, and less-trafficked Croatian islands like Mljet will also see more tourists.

8. Damascus. Beit Al Mamlouka is the Syrian capital's first boutique hotel, and it won't be its last. The city will continue to lure greater numbers of tourists, especially in the event of a deal on the Golan Heights. The European travel press has been excited about Syria for a while; Rahul Jacob's Syria piece in the FT weekend before last sums up the country's varied appeals.

9. Northern Cyprus. A settlement appears to be coming, and the north of Cyprus will soon be seeing tourism in far greater numbers. Those after a clandestine vibe and vast stretches of undeveloped beachfront had better visit in a hurry.

And the theme...

Scaled-Back Local Value. The two most significant turns fueling this shift are the financial downturn and environmental concerns. The financial situation will be driving more tourists—including high-end travelers—to simplify their travel plans. Luxury as a principle organizing travel is conceptually exhausted. It's not dead, but it's at least temporarily down for the count. A green-minded interest in eco-friendly travel also continues to surge, prompting travelers to offset their carbon emissions and choose locally-run hotels and other venues over big chain hotels.

Simultaneously, an interest in the local versus homogenization is also emerging in increased sophistication around locally sourced food and tourist objets. The tricky idea of "authenticity" is behind much of this, with the editorial lines of a number of travel magazines explicitly moving toward an embrace of authenticity over luxury.

The travel trend of 2009 will thus be toward scaled-back journeys on more modest budgets, driven by local culture more than by the appeal of the cookie-cutter resort boilerplate. Home exchange, Servas, and couchsurfing will surge. Smaller guesthouses and resorts with a tie to local life will become increasingly favored. Larger chains will regroup with room rate bargains, carbon-neutral operating practices, and pledges to staff their facilities with local workers.

To all my readers: Happy 2009!

July 28, 2008

Sarajevo Gets More Cheap Flights

More ahead-of-the-curve activity from Germanwings. At the end of June, the German low-cost carrier announced that they'd start flying between Cologne/Bonn and Sarajevo in August. Flycheapo spent some time with the airline's 2008-2009 schedule and reports today that the airline will also be connecting Stuttgart and Sarajevo from late October on.

Sarajevo is an absolute star of a city. Its rich layers of culture and history and unique atmosphere make it an extraordinarily special place. When Marisa and I visited in May, I kept thinking about the relative dearth of tourists. Back in London, I blabbed to whoever would listen about the city and wondered out loud why Sarajevo hadn't made it onto a shortlist of weekend break destinations for Londoners. One British friend said, in his typically understated way: "It may have something to do with the fact that it was a war zone not long ago." But Bosnian War hostilities ended almost thirteen years ago.

Sarajevo is ripe for greater numbers of tourists. If another low-cost carrier or two were to jump on the Germanwings bandwagon, the city might begin to receive its tourism due.

June 24, 2008

Balkan Graffiti

Here are some images I meant to put up after returning from the Balkans last month. I'm particularly curious about the first one.


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Belgrade.

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Sarajevo.

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Belgrade.

May 28, 2008

One Night in Sarajevo

At the moment, I'm waiting in the Zagreb airport for my delayed WizzAir flight back to London. I should be tired. Marisa and I took the overnight train from Sarajevo to Zagreb last night. But I'm not tired, not at all; this wakefulness may have something to do with my newly acquired kava sa slagom habit. Sarajevo was absolutely amazing. The last time I visited I was 12 and it was wintertime. I visited with my mom and it was incredibly cold. The entire city was so dramatically different from anything I'd ever experienced that it fully took me aback. This time, with a bit more cultural and historical perspective, I found myself again amazed by Sarajevo's layeredness.

We arrived on Monday by bus from Belgrade. (To see what I was up to in Belgrade, check out my New York Post posts. Scroll down a bit.) The bus whizzed through the old city, with its amazing range of buildings, its minarets, and its church towers, leaving the city behind entirely. Surprised, we were reassured by a fellow passenger that the bus station was in the new part of town. It suddenly became clear to both of us that our bus, a Serbian line, was headed to a Serbian part of Sarajevo, something confirmed for us later. We grabbed a taxi into the old city and found a room at Hotel Gaj, a very welcoming hotel across the Miljacka river from most of the city's sights.

The city is just so magnificent, varied, and gorgeous, and locals are strikingly friendly. Trying to find a particular restaurant, we asked a woman in her sixties how to find it. She promptly bundled us into a taxi and took us to an excellent hillside restaurant, where she sat and drank wine with us and then left us to our dinner, returning as we were tucking into dessert. She's lived in Trier for 40 years and is about to return to her second Heimat after a vacation in Bosnia. We shared a fun and relaxed Ausländer-to-Ausländer palaver.

Anyway, more later after I return to London. In the meantime, here are some images from Sarajevo.

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Paint-lashed wall.

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Remnants of a caffeine break at the fruit and vegetable market.

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Bottle of local sparkling water.

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Beautiful stone wall.

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