Hotel Julamis, Mérida

I waited until the last minute to make a Mérida hotel reservation. When I finally got around to sending out emails, I received lots of disappointing no vacancy responses. After what seemed like an eternity, my onslaught of email queries yielded Hotel Julamis, a guesthouse in the city's historical center, with availability for six of the seven nights I was due to be in Mérida.

My hardcore budgeteer side was thrilled by the $25 nightly rate, single or double. This nightly rate was appealing, if seemingly incredible. I figured that in the case of a true disaster I could crash with a family member in town for the week.

It turns out that Julamis is a complete gem. The hotel is decorated simply, even sparsely, though carefully and well. It's got a lush courtyard full of plants and shade. Common spaces are decorated by paintings done by one of the proprietors. There are lounging areas, a hammock, and a single computer terminal that can be used for just 12 pesos ($1.10) per hour. A candle is lighted in a mid-stairwell basket at dusk. And a friendly dog and cat keep court.

All rooms are ensuite, cozy and very simple. There are no televisions and air conditioning is available in only one room (at a significant surcharge of $35/night.) The nightly rate comes with breakfast, which consists of toast with jam, corn flakes, a bowl of fruit, and coffee. 

But what makes Julamis so wonderful is not (just) the nightly rate, the friendly house dog, the slices of papaya at breakfast, or the hammock. It's the mood of the place. For this the proprietors of Julamis have to be credited. On Christmas night, they served a massive Cuban/American Christmas dinner for guests, friends, and neighbors. There were early evening tequila shots, too, and breakfast time daytrip suggestions throughout.

Julamis opened officially in November. As it offers few traditional amenities, it's not for everyone. But for travelers looking for a basic guesthouse that is also very friendly and aesthetically pleasing, it's an ideal choice. I'm expecting Julamis to attract a fanatical repeat following within a few months. I just hope they'll be able to squeeze me in on my next visit.